Hangman’s Noose, or, The Death of Casual Friday
Don’t get me started on neckties and bowties and the other cultural accoutrement that have evolved from practical usage (keeping the collar fastened around the neck before the advent of the button) into impractical torture device (keeping all of one’s blood in the head and thus causing physcotic I-May-Be-Having-an-Aneurysm episodes). If you squint at my tiny illustrated photograph, above and to the left, you will notice a tie. You will also notice that the smile on my face looks a lot like the death mask of a man who would rather die than wear that thing. For some terrific reason, though, the tie is back.
Necktie sales may have foundered in the decade or more since the words “casual Friday” entered men’s vocabularies, but in the last year or two, stylish men in their 20s and early 30s have embraced the old four-in-hand as a style statement – that is, as long as it is an optional one. Even with tie sales among older age groups uniformly down, sales to men 18 to 34 were up more than 13 percent, to $343 million from $303 million, between March 2006 and March 2007, according to NPD Group, which tracks clothing sales and trends.
The issue of the tie, and of fashion in general, is too complex and murky for one post to treat. Bill Blass, one prince of men’s fashion, has said that he loves the tie, but that the tie will eventually have to go. It’s too impractical, too uncomfortable in most situations, etc. If it’s going to die, can’t we just kill it now?




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back to top12 Comments to “Hangman’s Noose, or, The Death of Casual Friday”
In the picture I used to make my avatar, I was playing horn in a orchestra dress rehearsal and hadn’t yet put on my (bow) tie. In that case, I don’t stand out by wearing a bow tie, but outside of wedding parties and orchestra concerts, wearing a bowtie makes one look (to me) like they’re trying to look like a curmudgeonly academic type.
I always figured anyone wearing a bow tie really wants to wear a tie. If not the case, why then do you wear it, Harrison?
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Curmudgeonly may not have been the ideal word, but there it is. Probably no single word captures the essence of what I’m trying to say there.
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If it’s going to die, can’t we just kill it now?
Can we kill something that has never been alive?
Seriously, in this day of hate all things French, I am surprised we still use ties, since they gave us the idea. I am glad at my school we are not required to wear ties. I, too, think they are useless and do not really make a man look any more dressed up than a nice shirt, with or without the top button fastened.
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I like ties. They add a splash of color. If your collar fits well, it’s not too uncomfortable to wear one.
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Lacking a Y chromosome, I’ve never had to decide whether or not to wear a tie. Though there are many times I’ve thought that a tie could not be as uncomfortable as what women are often expected to wear to look stylish. My husband has for the most part given up on suggesting high heels, but occasionally he lets me know how good he think they would make me look. My mother stopped wearing a bra or stockings when she decided comfort was more important than style; I wear a bra but am glad to work in an office where pants are the norm rather than the exception.
My husband hates ties, and one thing he liked about being a pastor was wearing a collar shirt, to which he could add a plastic tab to be more formal. (Now he works in a warehouse and makes a point of wearing T-shirts that are already torn or stained so as not to ruin nicer ones.)
I wonder if maybe the degree of discomfort is not just whether the collar fits comfortably, but the size/shape of the neck. My father-in-law had virtually no neck (after an accident, when he needed to be put in a neck brace, the EMT yelled for a “no-neck neck brace”). My husband has more of a neck than his dad did, but I would guess that he still has less than a lot of men and that that is at least part of why he finds ties uncomfortable.
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There was an old Colonel in New England who started Lowe Bows, and when the WSJ did an article on him, the judge I worked for was interviewed — he always wore a bow tie and gave one to his clerks every year–I cannot tell you how many people — strangers! — called chambers to find out how to get in touch with the Lowe Bow people, even years after the article came out. I don’t know about regular neckties, everyone always says how uncomfortable that is (could it be the neck size of the shirt is wrong?), but bow tie afficionados are truly unique individuals. They’re not afraid to stand out. (And no, they are not all short, nerdy guys.)
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Oddly enough, in my suburban Chicago environs, wearing a suit and tie seems to have become an indicator of having a lower-status job.
Every morning I see a small number of very young guys (22-25) wearing a suit and tie to work. Yet despite their professional attire, their speech and demeanor indicates that they are probably not highly-paid professionals. Thus, their suits and ties become a means of gussying guys who would otherwise not be taken seriously. Meanwhile, the lawyers are all standing there in khakis and Oxford shirts (with no tie).
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Ever hear of the bola tie (sometimes called bolo tie)? My dad wore them a lot. They are basically two black cords with a decoration of some sort in the middle. (Tourist shops in Arizona sell them with a dead scorpion enclosed in plastic, and sometimes people actually wear them.)
When I see an old man with a bola tie, I know he’s from Arizona. Bola ties are the “official neckwear” of Arizona. Seriously. Look it up. Mom reported that young guys used to wear them, but when the governor declared them the official neckwear, young guys decided the governor was too old to set fashion for them, and ever since then it has been only old men who have worn them.
I think of my dad whenever I see one, and I wish I had claimed his turquoise one. (One of my siblings gave it to him, and I assumed that sibling would want it. Apparently I was the only one who wanted it, and I didn’t say anything, and it was given to Goodwill or something.)
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Cheryl, that’s a sad story
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I used to have to wear a tie every workday. Now, I no longer have to, and it’s a wonderful, liberating thing. And I do believe I’ve gotten smarter from all the extra oxygen making its way to my brain.
I believe the necktie is the undeniable proof that women rule the world.
That being said, I still feel a bit classy when I now wear one for a wedding or other special occassion. But that’s probably just because I’ve begun to believe my wife’s propaganda.
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“It’s too impractical, too uncomfortable in most situations, etc. If it’s going to die, can’t we just kill it now?”
Please say “No.” After about 15 years of not wearing a tie, I just started wearing one again. Zanazabar, like you I thought it was liberating to not wear a tie for a few years. The last few years, however, I simply felt sloppy. I’m tired of the “casual” look. I enjoy wearing my new ties and I’m appreciating the sharper appearance. [My wife likes them also, but I'm not wearing them at her instigation.] I agree, however, that I probably enjoy wearing them more since many shirts now have the adjustable top button.
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As the article points out, the alternative to a tie is khakis and polos, khakis and polos, khakis and polos. Against that background, it’s easy to look good. A tie helps.
Although Kiyoshi (7) is right, too; Around here, the drug reps are almost always dressed better than the doctors. Among the doctors, though, the specialists are more likely to dress up than the family doctors. There’s one particularly disheveled cardiologist; I think he’s trying to cultivate an academic look.
Ties aren’t going anywhere. Buy shirts that fit and ties are fine.
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